I’m sitting in a tiki hut perched on the edge of a mountain, watching clouds float by in the reflection of an infinity pool. Tiny black and white birds dive bomb into the jungle below that looks otherwise impenetrable. Around me, honeymooners cuddle on chaise lounges sipping drinks.
From this pristine spot on earth, I can see for miles. Is that a volcano in the distance blowing smoke? A hand suddenly appears holding a cold cocktail.
“Hi-yeee!! Welcome!” a smiling bartender greets us, knowing we just arrived. “Here’s your drink, it’s 2-for-1 everyday, where you from? You need to stay for the sunset, gonna be a good one!” He laughs and smiles, talking in a rush of sing-song English.
I point to the volcano.
“Yes, yes, that’s Java, the sunset is soon,” he repeats. Of course we stay, oohing and ahhing with the other guests as the sky explodes into a riot of pinks and reds. From what I”ve seen, in Bali, there is something magical around every corner.
Munduk Moding Plantation is a working coffee plantation and luxury eco-resort. Guests come here to do mountain trekking, horseback riding and bask in killer views from romantic cottages tricked out with plunge pools and private stone terraces.
My friend, Janet, and I had started hatching out a plan to go to South East Asia when a serendipitous email arrived in my inbox. It is from one of my favorite suppliers, AliveExperiences, announcing that they had recently expanded into Bali. My clients all rave about their trips with AliveExperiences, a company that works exclusively with travel advisors who specialize in custom-curated private itineraries (like I do). Why not give them a try?
After some initial research, I come to realize that Bali is a kaleidoscope of contradictions – part Aussie party scene, part outdoor adventure, part spiritual journey. After some back and forth with our AliveExperiences trip designer who noted our interests (long walks, good food, less tourists), she presented us with a nine-night, whirlwind itinerary to show us the different sides of Bali.
A week before departure, our Travel Angel reached out on WhatsApp to introduce themselves. The Travel Angel at AliveExperiences is a concierge and in-country problem solver rolled into one. Knowing support is only a text away is a great comfort when you are traveling halfway across the world. During our trip, our travel angel certainly stepped up, notifying a restaurant to hold a coveted reservation when we were running late and sprang into action galvanizing a hotel staff to search for a bracelet I thought I had lost (I found it in my suitcase).
Landing in Denpasar, Bali’s international airport, our guide and driver were waiting for us curbside. Dressed in local sarongs while bearing gifts and I love Bali shopping bags, they break into huge smiles. “Welcome to Bali! Let’s get you out of this heat!” says Komang, our guide, as we settle into our luxury SUV. He shows us a map of where we were going. “Your first stop is the heart of Bali – Ubud.”
Made popular by the movie, Eat, Pray, Love, Ubud’s two-lane roads are clogged with traffic as we wind our way through a jungle of walled-off villages peppering Koming with questions. “Every village has a temple, every house is actually multiple buildings, every family has four temples,” Komang explains, giving us an overview of Balinese living.
Madi expertly navigates the neverending throngs of speeding motorbikes around us. “Never leave your house at 9,12, 3 or 6 pm” advises Komang, after we get stuck in a traffic jam. I look at my watch. It’s 3 pm.
I don’t think Komang ever stops smiling the entire time we are together. He is full of interesting facts about Bali, regaling us with its history and answers our endless questions. He tries to teach us simple words but it’s a very complicated language. “The alphabet is like Spanish, Ah, Beh, Seh,” he demonstrates. He tells us all about how the island is really not hindu but everyone had to mark something on their identity card when the Muslim government began requiring it.
He says Balinese don’t have last names, and his name isn’t really Komang, it’s’ the name of his birth order. I am perplexed. “So, wait, what? How does that work?” He laughs. “Village gatherings are tough – half the people turn when they hear “Hi, Komang.”
In Ubud, we hit the silver museum and shop for jewelry. I buy a bracelet made from woven silver links using the traditional Balinese method – the very same that inspired John Hardy and spawned his jewelry empire.
We visit a local village, marveling at the whimsical stone statues and ornate facades which I learn are carved in place. I get a whiff of frangipani and gardenia, and notice them all around me. There are little canang saris, small square baskets made of palm fronts and filled with flowers, bits of food and incense, left everywhere which launches a lengthy discussion about the multitude of beliefs and traditions in Bali.
We check into our hotel, the Anantara Ubud, a gorgeous new luxury resort 30 minutes north of Ubud. It is set into the mountainside and cascades down a mammoth valley of lush jungle greenery giving each level an unobstructed and pristine view. Like many hotels in Bali, its terraced into the mountainside so they installed lifts to take you to your floor. I liked to use the stairs but they seemed very anxious about it! Apparently, nobody uses the stairs.
I booked us a two-bedroom suite with a private plunge pool, an oasis of calm overlooking the two highest peaks in Bali, Mount Agung and Mount Batukaru.
During our stay, we taste delicious local dishes from a thoughtful menu and attend a cooking class at the home of a local who seems to channel Buddha himself.
We take nightly walks after dinner and marvel at the ginormous leaves. One day we walked through the rice fields to the nearby village where smiling locals call out ‘hello’, clearly excited to practice their English.
We get balinese massages at the beautiful spa where I become obsessed with the teacups. When I inquire about purchasing them, Jeni, our Anantara personal concierge via WhatsApp tells me I can find them at the Jengalla store in town.
The next day, Komang and Madi drive to the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, a UNESCO Heritage site of stunning beauty. It is the first time we see large buses of tourists. Janet and I lament out loud that it’s a shame we won’t have the fields to ourselves, but Komang assures us that the tourists are just there to take a pictures and move on. “Instagram!” he laughs. Sure enough, we descend into the rice paddies and are alone.
We wander along following the path, crisscrossing canals over simple wooden bridges, while Koming tells us the story of how the Dutch brought modern irrigation to Bali.
We spot a couple of unusual birds, Janet tries on a painted hat and buys some rice puffs that taste like sugar cones while I purchase local rice from a farmstand. Storm clouds begin to roll in – Bali’s afternoon showers are pretty much a given – so we head back to our car.
We head to the famous Ulun Danu Brata temple on the lake. It’s a long drive north by way of mountainous wilderness and a switchback ladened road. We were glad to be in Madi’s capable hands as our car zooms by the beautiful twin lakes of Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan where gangs of monkeys amuse people stopped on the side of the road.
Mundok Moding Plantation is our home for the next two nights where we wake up to lovely bird songs and marvel at the epic view of the valley where we can see the beaches of Northern Bali.
We do some birdwatching, swim in the infinity pool, enjoy the sunsets and get a tour of the massive garden with the head gardener. “If you eat at the Balinese restaurant tonight, you will be eating what I have grown,” he says proudly as we swap instagram accounts. Sure enough, dinner that night was a chicken satay and sambal dip with a melange of flavors made from garlic, peppers, shallots and lemongrass.
Our next stop is Seminak, a legendary beach town on the west coast where we finally encounter the infamous throngs of Aussie tourists. As we slow to a crawl near the town’s center, tourists fill up the roadside. It honestly doesn’t look safe to be walking but somehow everyone manages.
We hop out at John Hardy’s restaurant, the Long table, for a much anticipated feast. The boutique and cafe are housed in a building similar to a traditional temple. We are led inside and down the stairs to the long table, a singular piece of stunning reclaimed teak overlooking a Balinese garden. Our meal is a progressive menu of luscious bites paired with inventive drinks to sip, each more interesting than the last.
After lunch, we try our hand at the jewelry making process and read about the history and evolution of Hardy’s techniques. Of course, we also did a little shopping in the boutique!
Three minutes down the road is our next hotel, the new five-star beachfront Alila Seminyak. Our one-bedroom suite with a balcony overlooked one of the two massive infinity pools above a beach, pool bar and restaurant.
This hotel had our favorite bathroom of the trip with two humongous sinks and custom wood cutout shelving and closetry. We walked into town to get coffee at the cafe Baked, and took a long walk on the beach that evening. A quick dip in the pool where we caught a brilliant sunset caps off another fun-filled day.
Our last destination was Sanur, a town known for its laid back, family-friendly vibe. Being our last stop on our three week trip, we were looking forward to some R&R. We walked the boardwalk each morning, picking out different cafes to eat breakfast. I also visited the spa each day, having become addicted to Balinese massages that include a foot scrub and sensuous essential oils.
Midday is too hot to walk so we head to the lobby of our hotel and ask how much are the bikes to rent. “50,000” says the smiling doorman. I’ll never get used to the currency conversion – but it’s a deal at $3. We grab two bikes and head out.
The beach boardwalk is a cacophony of sights and sounds, a constant motion of parents ushering children, hawkers selling bracelets, people eating, walking, playing. Balinese cooking, with its unique combination of grilled meat and asian spices, fills the air and makes our mouths water as we whiz by cafe after cafe.
Circling back to the hotel through town, the scene is now familiar: busy streets, walled villages, honking cars, whizzing scooters, and mismatched storefronts. For the first time, I begin to understand the tension that defines modern Bali—a place grappling with rapid change, where centuries-old traditions somehow continue to coexist with the demands of the modern world.
The next day, Komang and Madi take us to the airport. With his hand over his heart, Koming bows and expresses his thanks to us for allowing him to show us around. We, in turn, give them big American hugs (and tips), grateful for their guidance and kindness. One last try to say thank you in Balinese has us all laughing. As we walk away, I am filled with gratitude and peace. AliveExperience delivered on their promise to show us a bit of Bali’s magic, and I will keep these moments in my heart forever.
Where To Wander Next 
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