Where To Wander Next

I’m standing at the airport getting my passport stamped in Belize City when the immigration officer asks where we came from. 

“Texas.”

He breaks into a huge grin. “Texas! Well, that’s a short flight—only two hours away, right!? Welcome to Belize!”

A few minutes later, it happens again at the rental car counter.

“Texas? It’s so close! Only two hours away!”

“What is going on?” I say to my husband, wondering if the Belize Tourism Board had sent out a countrywide memo instructing everyone to remind Americans just how easy Belize is to reach.

A few days later, a taxi driver went slightly off script.

“It’s so easy to get here from the US! Yeah,” he joked with a smile. “Forget Mexico.”

Tucked between Mexico and Guatemala, Belize feels like one of Central America’s best-kept secrets. The country has earned international recognition for its commitment to ecotourism by banning offshore oil drilling, restricting single-use plastics, and preserving nearly 70 percent of its land in its natural state. It also successfully removed the Belize Barrier Reef from UNESCO’s endangered list—a remarkable conservation achievement.

The highways are in excellent condition and surprisingly empty. Add low crime, pristine rainforests, spectacular islands, and the fact that Belize is the only Central American country with English as its official language (although Spanish and Creole are also widely spoken), and it’s easy to understand its growing popularity.

When planning our trip, I originally thought three days in the jungle and three days on the islands would be perfect. Then I read about the ancient Maya city of Lamanai and immediately added two nights.

We pick up our rental car and drive to The Black Orchid, a charming boutique eco-resort overlooking the Belize River. We are greeted by the sounds of howler monkeys and tropical birds in every direction. Breakfast and dinner were included, featuring delicious local dishes like stewed chicken, rice & beans and plantains. We even met the owners, who stopped by the dining room each evening to make sure everyone was enjoying themselves.

Belize is hot so I took a dip in the pool after we checked in and met a landscaper who probably owns the world’s record for strolling at a snails pace. I”m from the east coast! We walk fast!!! When I recount my observation with Adam, he says, Well, it’s so hot. You probably don’t sweat as much if you walk slow. I know he’s right! It’s hot and it’s December, which is what also makes it a great winter destination.

The adventures begin the next day with a two-hour, 46 mile boat ride up the New River to the Lamanai Archaeological Reserve. Our guide, Amir Reyes, was a real-life Indiana Jones who had spent his entire life on the river.

“See my badge,” he said proudly, pointing to the number engraved on it. “Number 001. I was the first licensed guide in Belize.”

As we cruised along, Amir pointed out hidden Mennonite villages and plants used for food and medicine. A few minutes later he eased the boat beneath an overhanging palm, shook the branches, and caught a handful of berries. “Saw palmetto,” he smiled. “Good for the prostate!”

He also points out the abandoned riverfront property once owned by John McAfee (of McAfee Internet security), who had a dream of building a resort. “You can survive out here if you know what you’re doing,” Amir explained. “But John didn’t know what he was doing.”

Eventually the narrow river opens into New River Lagoon, where Lamanai emerged from the jungle. Lamanai is unlike any archaeological site I’ve ever visited. Hidden deep in the rainforest, it remained continuously occupied for more than 3,000 years—far longer than most Maya cities.

The ruins are enormous, and the sheer scale of the pyramids is impossible to appreciate until you’re standing at their base, looking straight up. As we climbed, troops of howler monkeys roared from the treetops above us, adding to the mystical atmosphere.

Our next stop was San Ignacio, a charming town two hours west surrounded by mountains, rivers, and dense rainforest. We checked into the beautiful San Ignacio Resort Hotel, where Belizean artwork and colonial-inspired furnishings gave the property an elegant feel. Each morning we enjoyed homemade breakfasts on the veranda overlooking the pool while consulting the daily bird sightings chalkboard to see what species had visited overnight.

The resort’s Green Iguana Conservation Project was fascinating, allowing us to hand-feed beautiful green iguanas while learning about their conservation. We also joined the medicinal plant tour, where we learned which jungle plants could heal us—and which ones could kill us.

“Here is the poison wood, which can cause terrible burns and blisters. But nature has a plan so if you look nearby, you will always find a gumbo limbo tree which has the cure,” the guide lectures.

Over the next few days we explored a butterfly farm, joined another birding excursion, and hiked to a series of crystal-clear waterfall pools that feed the Frio River and more ruins.

Just twenty minutes from San Ignacio are the spectacular Maya ruins of Xunantunich. Getting there is part of the adventure! We crossed the Mopan River by car aboard a hand-cranked cable ferry before climbing to one of Belize’s most impressive archaeological sites. From the top of El Castillo, we looked out over an endless sea of jungle stretching all the way into neighboring Guatemala.

After returning our rental car, we boarded a tiny commuter flight to Ambergris Caye, Belize’s largest island. Since we were celebrating our anniversary, we splurged on a beachfront casita at Victoria House Resort & Spa just south of San Pedro. The resort is beautifully landscaped with tranquil pools, excellent dining and manicured grounds. One evening the staff arranged a surprise candlelit anniversary dinner in their waterfront gazebo.

I have to admit, San Pedro itself was a bit rougher around the edges than I expected. Our golf cart bounced and lurched along pothole-filled roads as we made our way north to Secret Beach, where we spent the afternoon swimming, relaxing, and sampling food from several laid-back beach bars. But, on the drive back, we stopped at a roadside stand where a smiling vendor hacked open a fresh coconut with a machete. It was sweet, refreshing, and far better than the processed stuff in stores.

On our final day we ferried over to Caye Caulker intending to snorkel, but rough seas changed our plans. Instead, we wandered through town, browsed the local shops, swam in the crystal-clear water, and sipped some of the best piña coladas of the trip.

The food throughout Belize was another wonderful surprise. I’d describe it as a delicious blend of Mexican and Caribbean flavors, with incredibly fresh seafood and reasonably priced lobster on every menu. My favorite was a lobster salad that reminded me of Bahamian conch salad—fresh lobster tossed with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and plenty of lime juice. I ordered one almost every day.

But what I’ll remember most of Belize are the people. From the moment we landed until the moment we left, we were greeted with genuine smiles, warm conversations, and an easygoing sense of humor. Belizeans are quick to laugh and love to joke with visitors. They are natural hosts and are eager for you to have a great time. So when someone grins and asks if you’re having an “unBelizeable” time, just smile back and say yes.

Because chances are, it’s true.