Where To Wander Next

Experience the magic of Paris: from cozy bistros and stunning parks to museums and romantic rooftop dinners.

One evening this past September, I find myself squeezed into what is the tightest space I’ve ever dined in. The restaurant is Chez Fernand, a highly rated bistro in the Saint-Germain area of Paris where my husband is seeking his favorite French dish, beef bourguignon.

Shoulder to shoulder with me are my dining compatriots for the night – total strangers three minutes ago. You can’t help but acknowledge your new neighbor with a quick nod and smile for, going forward, they will see and hear everything you eat and say.

The entire restaurant is only about 12 feet wide. I watch, amazed, as servers, twisting and turning like acrobats, deliver bread, food, and wine throughout the night.

“Uh, I should have gone to the bathroom,” I murmur to Adam as a waiter starts to slide the empty table out to seat a party next to us and I realize I will be stuck for the next 2 hours.

“Pardon,” I say, gesturing that I have to get out.

“No problem!” the waiter says as he lifts the tiny table completely up and out of the way. The headwaiter sees me trying to manuever out. Grabbing my hand, he tucks it gallently into the crook of his arm and leads me toward the bathroom. He doesn’t let go until we are in front of a small sliding door.

“Voilà!” he says, dropping my hand with a flourish.

I marvel at the ceremony of it all—formal, grandiose and charming, all rolled into one. You gotta love France!

Back at our table, Adam is shaking his head. “I can’t get over the butter,” he says. “And the bread!”

He’s right. The legendary French bread is perfectly crunchy on the outside, light and chewy on the inside. And somehow, it doesn’t leave you feeling bloated. The entire country seems to indulge daily, as I see Parisians on the sidewalk, heading home at the end of the day with fresh baguettes peeking out of their backpacks. Not something you see back home!

DAY 1

My plan is to rent e-bikes from Unlimited Biking and take Adam on a whirlwind bike tour to see the sights. I’ve designed a route that incluedes the Eiffel Tower, The Trocadéro, Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Élysées through the Place de Concorde & Tulleries.

Fall in Paris is usually quite magical. However, this year, 2026, there has been a terrible drought all summer so instead of a cacophony of colors, leaves were just dropping “brown and to the ground.” Oh, well, at least we are no longer sweating buckets and avoiding massive hordes of tourists.

In the park where the Eiffel Tower is, we bike on various side paths through the gardens to avoid pedestrians. Suddenly, around the corner, the elegant monument reveals itself. Built by Gustave Eiffel for the World Expo of in 1889, it really is magnificent.

We cross the Pont d’Iéna, a 19th-century bridge organized with lanes for cars, pedestrians, and bikes. It’s organized chaos that seems to work. We get off our bikes at the Trocadero and climb the stairs. Created for the 1937 World’s Fair, The Trocadero offers a panoramic view of the Eiffel Tower. Sadly, the fountains are off due to the draught. But, still, worth the stop!

We head over to my appointment to tour Saint James Paris, a stately chateau-turned-private club/hotel. It’s truly an oasis in the city. The head of sales graciously shows me around recounting how the building used to be a residential school for talented scholars.

From the upper landing, I snap some pictures and imagine my most discerning clients staying here.

Next, it’s on to the Arc de Triomphe, where traffic is at a full stop in the traffic circle. What a mess! Good thing we are on bikes!

On the Champs-Élysées, harried Parisians on e-bikes whiz past us at ungodly speeds as we marvel the famous boulevard full of shops and restaurants. The buildings that line the streets of Paris are magnificent, each one more grandiose than the next.

We pass the Petit Palais and Grand Palais, then walk our bikes through the Jardin Charles-Aznavour, the famous singer to view the Olympic statue and rose bushes which officially bear his name.

We make our way over to the Montorgueil district for lunch. It’s an old neighborhood between the 1st and 2nd arrondissements full of charming cobbled pedestrian streets lined with shops and sidewalk cafes and even houses the oldest bakery in Paris, the Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Stohrer, founded in 1730.

We head to Aux Crus de Bourgogne. Lunch is a big deal in Paris. First of all, it’s only served between 12 – 2 pm. Arrive at 2:10? No! is the answer you will get. So, reservations are a must for popular spots, and be prepared for a delightful drawn out multi-course meal to ensue.

Adam is in heaven. “The bread, the butter,” he says, shaking his head.

Making note of our calorie intake, we split the daily menu of roasted duck, endive salad, and lemon sorbet. I watch more desserts go by and wish had room!

I tour the Sofitel Le Scribe Opera with the sales team. It’s a lovely choice for the area.

Then we head over to our final stop, Musee D’orsay. We head past the main gallery of bronze statues and peruse the famous impressionists paintings on the top floors.

DAY 2

The next morning, while eating fantastic eggs Benedict, I layout my plans to Adam. We are doing a walking tour of the Left Bank because we need to get from our hotel, SAX Paris, to meet the director of sales at the SO Paris hotel for a tour and a drink in the afternoon.

” I want to show you the Latin Quarter, then go across the Seine to Le Marais. It’s a long walk, several miles,” I say to Adam, raising my eyebrows as I gage his enthusiasm.

“Whatever you plan is perfect,” he replies, squeezing my hand romantically.

Soon we are window shopping along the pretty streets of Saint Germaine, past elegant stone buildings, little cafés, bakeries, and boutiques. Our first destination is Le Bon Marché, home to the hip Sézane boutique, where we ogle the beautifully color-coded displays. Then, I stop at Clarins to buy some sunscreen.

We stumble upon the imposing Saint-Sulpice and its square and take a peek inside.

Next, we walk through the Jardin du Luxembourg to see the Medici Fountain before making our way to Place de la Contrescarpe, a famous square in the Latin Quarter where authors George Orwell and Ernest Hemingway hungout.

The Latin Quarter is one of my favorites, with its bohemian mix of little bookshops, lively cafés, and tiny streets. We walk a few more blocks, each street quainter than the last, and stop for lunch at Bistrot 20 Le Vingt, where I sample their popular terrine. Another winning dish!

After lunch, we cross the bridge to Île de la Cité, to see Notre-Dame Cathedral.

We stop to admire its twin towers and intricate Gothic façade, taking in the crazy carved figures above the doorways and the enormous crowds waiting to go inside. Wild looking spires spike the sky while flying buttresses seem to defy gravity. It’s astonishing to think it was built a thousand years ago…

We pass by the Hôtel de Ville, Paris’ townhall since 1357 and the largest in Europe. Taking in the small, winding streets of Le Marais, we emerge on the green at Place des Vosges.

The Bastille

There’s more to the Bastille area than its famous square and July Column. I show Adam the secret path down to the Canal Martin where some houseboats are parked. We go through a tunnel below the streets and emerge on an open promenade on the Seine. We sit and watch the sightseeing boats go by.

At the rooftop bar of the chic SO Hotel, we sit down with Joséphine. We had met at a Accor Hotels function in Colombia back in March. We toast to our new friendship, talk about her life in Paris, the meals, the food while sipping champagne and rosé. The view is spectacular.

We end the night dining back at our hotel at the glamorous rooftop restaurant, Kinugawa Rive Gauche. To snag a table, I had to contact the concierge three weeks before we arrived. Luckily they hold spots just for guests. We feel a little underdressed among the hip crowd of beautiful people as we munch on craft cocktails and fresh sushi.

The Eiffel Tower lights up the far window, creating a romantic atmosphere. Holding hands, we make out way out to the balcony and stand shoulder to shoulder watching the City of Light. It’s our last night in Paris, and it’s magical.

Lillian Martin has been visiting Paris for a long time. She is the Senior Travel Advisor / Travel Agent with Reece Worldwide Travel. For help planning your next vacation, please click here