The family text thread blows up with non-negotiables as we plan our summer visit to Martha’s Vineyard:
“Back Door Donuts!”
“South Beach!”
“Farmers Market!”
“Mad Martha’s Ice Cream!”
It’s hard to fit in all our favorites.
You’ve probably heard about all the famous politicians and celebrities who have houses on Martha’s Vineyard – the Kennedys, the Clintons, the Obamas, Spike Lee, Joni Mitchell, and David Letterman, to name a few.
However, as someone who as been going to the island for over 30 years, its reputation as an exclusive summer resort for the wealthy is only half the picture.
There’s a laid-back quaintness to the island that’s hard to describe. Even when the island is in full swing—from late June through Labor Day—you can find a quiet spot to bike or read a book.
You’re more apt to park next to a beat-up Jeep than a Mercedes or encounter a makeshift farm stand with an honor-system money tin and bunches of freshly picked flowers than a shop selling designer duds.
Locals may feel differently but Martha’s Vineyard remains refreshingly unchanged year after year. My husband’s family has been coming to Martha’s Vineyard since 1962, and the summer apartment they rented back then is still going strong! Many of the businesses have been around for decades and when one closes, the locals mourn.
Edgartown
Our family house is near Edgartown, where classic colonial and neo-gothic architecture from the 18th century mix with art galleries and shops to explore.
We like to walk to town and grab a clam chowder at the Quarterdeck food shack and meander over to the big dock where my husband fished as a kid. It’s fun to watch the five minute ferry go back and forth to Chappaquidick Island.
One night, we eat at the Harbor View Hotel, a five star luxury resort with views of the lighthouse.
After dinner, we walk to Mad Martha’s Ice Cream. I opt for my usual blueberry ice cream (despite the usual calls and urging for me to try something new). No way! It’s the best in the world.
West Tisbury
The sun is shining the morning after we arrive, so we head “up-island” to grab sandwiches at 7a Foods and have an impromptu picnic at the Field Gallery among the sculptures on the lawn.
Then it’s off to Menemsha to get clam chowder from the fish market to eat with fresh swordfish for dinner that night which will include a thorough discussion about said clam chowder, is it the best, where is the best on the island, how does it rate with Larson’s or Edgartown Seafood Market…lol….
Preservation is at the heart of Martha’s Vineyard
Much of the island has been preserved in its natural state, thanks to the work of the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank, Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, and the Trustees of Reservations. These organizations preserve land for public use, allowing wildlife to flourish. We’ve become avid birders, and during our trip, we saw flocks of geese flying overhead, a gaggle of wild turkeys ushering their young across the road and an osprey guarding her nest. We also saw wild deer, ducks, and horseshoe crabs roaming in the shallows at the beach. Those things are huge!
Aquinnah
While we do have our perennial favorites, we seem to always find something new to do. The “big deal” this summer is the recently formed Squibnocket Pond Reservation, a 330-acre property formerly owned by Jackie Onassis now open to the public in Aquinnah. Scoring one of their 10 parking spots at the reservation is nearly impossible. So, my husband and I decide to bike there from Aquinnah Beach which is a couple of miles away.
Following the windswept road above the cliffs, with the ocean stretching on our right, its a relaxing and beautiful ride.
When we arrive at the reservation, we check in with a friendly attendant at the booth who shows us where to park our bikes. We hike down to the water along a series of trails built to help keep the forest in its pristine state.
After about a mile, we emerge on a cliff over the beach. We pause in the listening to the surf and seagulls occassional squacks. I imagine little Caroline and John Kennedy building sandcastles here when they were children.
After our three-mile hike and five-mile bike ride, we’re exhausted, so we hit the Aquinnah beach. It’s one of the most stunning places in the world. Multicolored cliffs look down on us as we splash in the surf and take in the scenery.
Chilmark
On Saturday, we take a field trip with my brother-in-law. He brings us to the flea market and farmers market before we stop at Chilmark Pottery to pick up a soap dish.
Housed in a weathered barn, Chilmark Pottery has been around since 1982 and is run by veteran potter Geoffrey Borr. Inside, you’ll find him and his apprentices hard at work, shaping pieces on their wheels as you shop.
Oak Bluffs
This year, we go see the Indigo Girls perform at the Tabernacle, an open-air event space in Oak Bluffs. The Tabernacle’s roots reach back to the religious revival movement that took place on the island in the 1850s. we enjoy a beautiful night of live music then weave our way through the historic district of gingerbread cottages to Back Door Donuts to get a piping hot apple fritter.
Vineyard Haven
In Vineyard Haven, we eat at Salvatore’s one night. I’ve been home for three weeks and I can’t stop thinking of their linguini and clams!!!
Vineyard Haven is full of unique shops and restaurants. I like to head to LeRoux at Home to pick up gifts for the house, while Adam heads to the Bunch of Grapes Bookstore. We meet up for lunch at the Black Dog Bakery overlooking the water. Don’t leave without buying some classic Black Dog gear, which is instantly recognizable and beloved worldwide.
While biking on our last day, I finally spot the elusive llamas on the lawn of the Boch property, a massive waterfront estate on Katama Road. They are quite famous and beloved by all who pass by. Even though I’ve seen them year after year, I still can’t resist stopping and snapping another picture! After all, its a tradition.
Contemplating a summer vacation? Martha’s Vineyard has six unique towns, miles of beach and offers an endless basket of fun and delights for families and couples alike! Reach out to book.
Lillian Martin is a Senior Travel Advisor at Reece Worldwide Travel. To book your next trip, click here.
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